We are back from 3 weeks traveling in the fascinating country of Myanmar. Formerly known as Burma, the country has opened up its borders again for tourists after years of military regime. For those wanting to travel to Myanmar, here are our first impressions and Myanmar itinerary. At the end of the post you will find links to all our Myanmar stories!
Over 2,000 pictures covering in total 6 places, 7 hotels, 4 local bus trips and 1 domestic flight…we have a lot of stories to tell! The coming weeks you will be reading more about Myanmar, where this post is just an introduction. It shows you our itinerary and if you intend to travel to Myanmar and want to know more details, don’t hesitate to leave a comment or send me an email.
Many friends and colleagues are curious. “How was Myanmar? Can you compare it to Thailand or Cambodia?” Questions that I intend to answer in the upcoming posts. But I can already tell you that our trip was an intense one.
No, you don’t have 7-11 shops like in Thailand, you don’t have Starbucks or McDonalds. What you do have are old and crappy hotel rooms against (ridiculously) high prices. An unappealing choice of food. Pro-activity in hotel service still has to be invented in many places. Burmese men’s teeth are stained red because of the continous betel nut chewing. The soaring heat of the dusty Bagan plains are tough. Downtown Yangon’s dirty vegetable and meat markets are not to be advised after a heavy rain shower when streets turn into a muddy sewer.
A crazy place to travel to? Or characteristics of an unpolished gem?
In my posts I am not going to hide the difficult things that we encountered. But of course the focus will be on the magical places that we have visited. Because Myanmar has many of them: the U-Bein bridge in Mandaly, the Thanboddhay pagoda in Monywa with over 500,000 buddha images, the fishermen of Inle Lake, the cigar-smoking ladies at the local markets, the Buddhist monks (we have never seen so many of them!) that invited us in to attend meditation and chant sessions, and of course the really magical plains of Bagan with its thousands of pagodas and temples…
Our Myanmar itinerary: start in Mandalay
Via Dubai and Bangkok we arrived in Mandalay, our first stop in Myanmar. Mandalay is all about the beautiful Mandalay Hill (great sunset views!) and the U-Bein bridge, a 1.2 km or 0.7-mile bridge where locals cross the lake and which is famous for (again) its sunset views.
But don’t forget the ancient and nearby cities of Amarapura, Sagaing and Inwa. The area is a good introduction to the diversity of Myanmar where you can stay at least 2 or 3 days.
In Mandalay we realised how excited local people were to see our kids (white skin, white hair). I am not exaggerating when I tell you that during our 3-week trip at least 100 people wanted to take a picture with them!
Monywa
After Mandalay we traveled to the lesser visited town of Monywa, with its flamboyant Thanboddhay Pagoda, the 116-metre (424ft) high standing Buddha and hundreds of stone Buddha statues in a forest. The Monywa post is going to be a surreal one…
We spent two days in Monywa. More than anywhere else I liked the street life. It’s a small city with friendly people and we saw only 2 more tourists… The picture below is one of my favorites as it shows all that is happening on the streets in one shot.
Bagan
From Monywa we traveled south to the highlight of our trip: Bagan! They call it the Bagan Archeological Zone; an area of 50 sq km (26 sq miles) where 2,200 temples and pagodas are waiting for you to discover. We rented the popular e-bikes (it’s too hot to cycle!!) and enjoyed ourselves to the fullest for 4 days.
Kalaw
After the heat of Bagan we so much welcomed the cool climate of the mountain village of Kalaw. From here many travelers go for 2-3 days trekking, but we decided to stay and hang around in this charming little village. During 2 days we enjoyed local markets, hill tribes and lots of monks in the local monastery.
I should not forget to show you the cigar smoking women!
Inle Lake
Two hours from Kalaw you will find the Inle Lake. The government will ask 10 USD entry fee to enter the city but it’s definitely worth it. The post about Inle Lake will show you the beautiful floating gardens and fishermen mastering the one legged rowing technique. We had a fabulous 4 days here.
Our hotel at Inle lake was pretty challenging. Situated next to the main river that feeds the lake, at 4.30am the first boats passed by with a tremendous noise (all boats run on these old diesel engines): locals on their way to the market and tourists wanting to see the sunrise. Good morning Myanmar!
Yangon
Is there even more? Yes! Our last destination in Myanmar was the former capital city of Yangon. Highlight in Yangon is the Shwedagon pagoda, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the country. Never seen so much devotion… We actually spent 4 hours exploring the pagoda grounds.
And what about this monk, the coolest one we ever met!
When I go through all my pictures I quickly forget the tough and uncomfortable moments. Myanmar is a pure and genuine country where its people need to find their own ways after years of mismanagement by a repressive military junta. They have a long way to go but for the less-demanding travelers Myanmar is ripe for exploration!
The pictures in this post are just a small selection, but you can enjoy much more by checking out the following posts on my blog:
1. Mandalay, start of our Myanmar trip
3. Ode to Bagan
4. Inle Lake (“No Jumping Cats at Inle Lake…say what??”)
5. The crown of Burma: Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon.
36 comments
Love your Myanmar travels. We are starting the process of planning a trip to Myanmar. Did you do all of the traveling on your own or did you hire a guide and car to take you around?
Thank you! We did all the traveling on our own. It’s quite easy to arrange that, especially with help from people at the hotel you are staying. There are no trains, but sufficient buses, (shared) taxis and planes. When we wanted to book our inland flight to Yangon, we were not able to do this online. So one of the first days we had our hotel arrange flight tickets which were delivered to our hotel. Good luck with your preparations!
Did you visit Hsipaw? I had heard so much about the place but did not manage to visit it.
Here is the link to my itinerary, esp considering that things in Myanmar are changing so much, it might be helpful. http://www.tickingthebucketlist.com/2016/01/myanmar-one-week-itinerary.html
Hello! What were your means of transportation from Mandalay to Bagan and from Inle Lake to Yangon?
Hi Clarissa!
From Mandalay to Monywa (or Bagan after that) we used local bus. You can buy tickets at the local bus station for a regular bus service or a smaller (and faster) mini bus (also called shared taxi). People from your hotel or guesthouse can help you get to the bus station. It really wasn’t difficult at all to arrange all this locally.
From Inle to Yangon we flew from nearby Heho airport. Best way is to book via your hotel in Mandalay (just after you arrived in Myanmar). Tickets at that time were still handwritten and purchase online was not possible. There are no trains. I believe you can also take a bus but it will take a lot of time I guess. Hope this helps!
I am from Myanmar but haven’t explored like you have and it seems quite interesting…..I can’t explore cause I live in India and that’s bad….wish I could go to Inle like you did and Is Inle a nice place??
I hope you will make it back to Myanmar soon Oliver. Inle is a really nice place and so is Bagan area.
How did you get place to place?
Hi! We traveled with local bus and shared taxi. All can be arranged quite easily upon arrival, asking a bit of help from your hotel.
Emiel
Awesome post!
We backpacked across Myanmar last year and fell in love with the country, its people, nature and culture. A place I would recommend is Kakku, in the Pa’o region around Inle Lake, it’s breathtaking.
If you’re looking for more inspiration and tips, check out our blog posts:
http://bonatravels.com/2015/06/13/country-summary-myanmar/
Thanks Carmen! We didn’t have time to visit Kakku but I guess we should have tried to fit it into our itinerary!
Thanks I guess it can be a day trip from Lake Inles..
[…] als geen ander hoe het is om met je kinderen door Myanmar te reizen. Je vindt op zijn reisblog Act of Traveling een impressie van zijn 3-weekse reis en vooral ook veel […]
Any tips as to how to get between places – did you take any buses etc?
Hello! Yes we did, we took local buses everywhere. It’s quite easy to arrange and you don’t have to book far in advance. Just ask anyone to bring you to the local bus station. There you can buy bus tickets; local employees will certainly help you choosing the right bus (local standard bus or an express one with a bit more comfort).
A bit more expensive but a good option if you don’t have much time are the shared taxis. A mini van will bring you together with 4 or 5 other (local) people.
There are no trains running in between the major sight seeing places. You can also take the boat from Mandalay to Bagan, but we were making a small detour to Monywa so had to go by bus all the way.
It looks like we may have to scrap our plans to visit. We had hoped to enter and leave overland from Thailand but it doesn’t seem thats an option. Unfortunately return flights and the expensive accommodation are too much for out budget.
So was it worth it to aee Monywa? Boats are lovely but sometimes it is all samesame. Don’t think I will spend 2 days floating down the Mekong again. Any other must see places?
Would love to hear more! Looking forward to your followup posts. It sounds like a very busy trip, and not necessarily for the faint-hearted!
Hi, in the meantime I have published posts about Mandalay, Monywa and Bagan. It was indeed a very busy schedule, be prepared for that.
Perfect
Wat indrukwekkend mooi allemaal. De mensen, de natuur, de gebouwen, het straatbeeld. Maar vooral de manier waarop jullie alles hebben vastgelegd, zo mooi. Als leek ( ik dus) denk je aan armoede bij zo’n land. Maar dan lees ik over e- bikes en de foto waarop jullie kinderen model staan zie ik allemaal hippe smartphones! Erg leuk om te lezen en te zien. Die vrouw met die sigaar ook! Super 🙂
Dank je wel voor je reactie Antoinette, erg leuk! Het is inderdaad een heel fascinerend land. Waarschijnlijk waren we in het begin ook een beetje verrast en verward door alles wat we zagen: dee combinatie van modern/rijk en armoede, de mensen die jarenlang onder een militair regime hebben geleefd en nu hun eigen weg moeten vinden. Maar overeind staat dat het land ontzettend veel mooie plekken biedt…ben benieuwd wat je van de andere verhalen gaat vinden!
Wat een mooie foto’s ik ben benieuwd naar de rest van jullie verhalen!
Dank je Tikva…de rest komt er aan! 🙂
I’m looking forward to seeing your next posts! What an interesting place you visited. I saw Anthony Bourdain’s show about Myanmar and was frightened watching him on the train, which seemed to bounce off the track constantly. You could tell even he was scared!
Well Jenna, we didn’t take the train in Myanmar 🙂 – although they seem to have some really nice routes. I cannot wait to share our stories…
I have the best memories too about this country!! The authenticity of the people and the surroundings! Grear!!
I know Jacomijn, I saw lots of your great pictures already before we went to Myanmar!
Looks like an amazing trip, a magical place indeed.
Thanks! Trust you will enjoy the upcoming posts as well 🙂
I love your honesty. It’s a place I always wanted to visit and am still on the fence over. You have tipped the scales on this little gem.
Thanks Erin! We had to get used to the country during our first week. But it is truly a little gem..
I have wanted to go there for SO long! I hope the prices you mention aren’t a deal breaker. That’s the reason I’ve never been to my other dream destination, Bhutan. Looking forward to your posts!
The thing about prices is that of course we compare with neighboring countries like Thailand. In Myanmar you pay double the price for a standard hotel room. The luxury hotels in Myanmar are way out of our league. It’s a matter of supply and demand: demand increases rapidly while demand is still lagging behind. But as new hotels are being build and old ones are renovated, the situation will improve for sure. I think Bhutan is again a different situation where you have to spend USD 250/day, no matter what. So Myanmar was more expensive compared to Thailand and Cambodia. But I am sure my posts will convince you to go… 🙂
So on a par with what? Malaysia ( way more expensive that Thailand/Laos etc) or more expensive again? I’ve got to go, it just may have to be a short trip.
Never been to Malaysia so cannot compare. It’s just that you don’t expect accommodation to be that expensive. But don’t worry, they also have 10USD solutions..just don’t expect much 🙂